Why a pH Balance Is Important in Skincare

Why a pH Balance Is Important in Skincare

Gina Marie McGuire, LE, President GINAMARIE Products

Often when we think of products and formulations, our first thoughts are active ingredients, antioxidants, and what is trending in the industry at the current time. What we forget is that these ingredients are just a fraction of what it takes to formulate a product. This can create confusion and controversy amongst those who specialize in skin care whether they be the manufacturers or the estheticians.

Ideally, when choosing any product, one should keep at the forefront of their mind that skin is an organ. Not only an organ but the largest organ of the human body. It is intricately connected to our tissues, other organs, and body systems. What is used on the skin, whether it be for cosmetic or health purposes, formulations can affect more than just our looks more importantly, our overall health. Having a clear understanding of what this largest organ needs to be healthy should be the starting point in determining what products you are choosing to use on your client’s skin. Topically duplicating what the body does internally will always result in fewer contraindications and healthier skin.

Unfortunately, this is easier said than done due to the fact that there are so many products on the market and a plethora of opinions on what a “good” product looks like. Knowing the difference between science and sales is of utmost importance, as this is the key to truly understanding any product. Anyone “selling” a product is going to tell you how good it is which is as it should be. It is up to the professional to make the determination whether these products are what you are looking for to achieve results for your client’s skin. Many products are formulated to make the skin feel better and temporarily look better and let’s not forget to also smell better. Taking a science-based perspective on product formulation is where things get more interesting and require an education that is not merely treating the dead layers of skin but rather the skin organ. More questions and research are involved because the skin is being affected at a deeper level.  Questions to consider, “What do I want this product to do? How often should a person use this product? What happens if they use too much? What skin types and age group is this product best suited for?” and so on. Clearly, there’s much to consider when it comes to using products. With that being said, there is one more detail in choosing a product that doesn’t get the attention that it should. This very important detail can be the culprit for problematic skin.

An Overlooked Detail To Any Product Formulation – pH Balance

We hear it. We even learned about it in esthetic school but do we understand the importance of pH in and out of the treatment room? The term pH balance has been marketed in skin care commercials and on the packaging of skincare labels for years. The role it plays with skin is another missing link for treating skin and prescribing home care for clients. So exactly what does pH mean and why is it so important in the products you use and the results we achieve?

Let’s start with the meaning of pH. pH stands for the potential of hydrogen. Our body naturally has pH levels to keep our organs and body systems balanced and functioning. All body fluids maintain a pH balance that is responsible for our well-being. pH is measured on a scale of 0 (most acidic) – 14 (most alkaline). In other words, it is the measure of the concentration of hydrogen ions in any substance. The first pH scale was devised in the early 1900s by Danish chemist S.P.L Sorensen for measuring acidity and alkalinity. There are several tools offered to measure pH such as pH strips, pH pencils, and pH meters. Each has pros and cons regarding the exactness of the pH level of a given product and the cost can vary.

What Makes the pH of Our Skin?

Our skin has what we call our acid mantle. This acid mantle is formed when your skin secretes sebum and breaks down fatty acids. It is responsible for keeping our skin healthy and moisturized. It does this by repelling the bacteria and toxins from harming us as well as this mantle protects our internal organs from the environment that we are surrounded by daily. It is our first barrier to the world we live in. And truly is working every second of the day to keep us balanced so nothing can harm us. A healthy lifestyle of diet, sleep, and stress control will contribute to keeping the skin balanced and vibrant. The body is continually striving to balance pH.

Because chemistry comes into play with pH levels it can be confusing and perhaps intimidating, particularly, if one does not have a chemistry background. Although this may be the case, it is imperative estheticians understand the pH levels of the products they are using on their client’s skin as well as the pH of the products they are recommending for their clients to use for home care. The good news is you don’t have to be a chemist. When we can simplify the complex we can make better decisions. Understanding and simplifying allow professionals to guide their client’s skin treatments and more importantly the proper daily skin care regimen, as this is critical to maintaining healthy skin.

Making the Complex Simple

Once again, pH levels are measured on a scale from 0 (most acid) – 14 (most alkaline). Skin is acid in nature, 4.5 – 5.5 on the pH scale. The goal is to maintain the acid pH balance because that is what keeps the skin healthy and protects it from toxicity invasion.

So, why is skin pH 4.5 – 5.5? The answer is simple.

• Acid hardens, and skin is hard (top layer of hardened cells called keratin)
• Acid repels bacteria. This is key to remember when treating acne clients. Acne is bacteria. It is imperative that the esthetician be sure their client is not using any product that may be alkaline because alkaline will attract bacteria.
• Acid holds moisture, keeping the skin supple and flexible.

When we deviate from the skin’s natural pH balance we open it up for adverse reactions. Can there be a time to change the pH of the skin with products? Yes. However, one should use caution because remember by changing the pH of the skin you are creating a reaction in the skin. Be careful to know what you are doing and why. Ask yourself, “Is it really necessary to change the pH level or would it be best to allow the skin to function as it is intended to”? As a licensed professional this is a decision you must consider for each and every client. Never lose sight that our skin has a very specific reason for being acidic in nature – to keep us alive, to keep our bodies healthy.

The opposite of acid

Alkaline (basic) is the opposite of acid.  A pH over 7+ on the scale. Alkaline-type products can cause an increase in skin sensitivity, and inflammation and also inhibit the skin’s ability to block the enzymes that destroy collagen and cause wrinkles and sagging (matrix metalloproteinases (MPPs) due to overexposure to UV rays. The harmful UV rays of the sun weaken our skin’s acid mantle, making it more alkaline and prone to issues such as pigmentation, dullness, and acne. Understanding your client’s overexposure to UV rays, both past and present should be part of your consultation. Remember, a balanced pH means healthy skin, an unbalanced pH can mean problematic skin.

• Alkaline softens skin.
• Alkaline attracts bacteria – acne is caused by bacteria. It’s imperative that the esthetician know the pH of the products their client is using at home as this may be a contributor to a client’s breakouts.
• Alkaline dries the skin and dehydrates the skin.

A Lower pH Level – Products that Fall Below 4.5 on the pH Scale

If choosing to use ingredients such as AHA, Glycolic Acid, BHA, Retin A, Retinol, Alcohol, etc. expect a reaction in the skin. These types of ingredients are intended to “burn” the skin in a controlled way. They are meant to make the skin react. Although this reaction can help to improve the health of the skin, it can also create contraindications to the skin, leaving it dry, sensitive, and inflamed. Many skin treatments and products have these ingredients, as this has become part of the anti-aging solution. Use caution. If overused or used incorrectly serious skin problems can occur. Always ask yourself “is there a better solution to solving anti-aging and if so, why not start there?” That is not to say there’s not a time and place for these ingredients in the treatment room or home care. That is up to you, the skin expert, to decide.

The Bottom Line

When it comes to pH balance, the intent should be to use products that are balanced with our skin’s natural barrier (4.5 -5.5) There certainly are times that estheticians may choose to use a product that is more acidic or alkaline to correct a problem. However, one must remember that changing the skin’s natural pH balance, on a regular basis, is not in our skin’s best interest. Unbalanced pH may be a contributor to the beginning of a disease and we should do our best to avoid messing with it! As professionals, continually strive to meet the requirements of this incredible organ, we call skin by singling out products that will enhance the health of the skin not hinder it.